Welcome to the World of Drumming!
You are now the proud owner of a set of Beverley drums.
If you're new to
drumming, please refer to this guide for instructions on assembling and tuning
your drums, holding sticks, and finding answers to frequently asked questions.
Drums are easy to start but very difficult to master so don't get discouraged.
Find a teacher, practice, and you'll get years of enjoyment from them.
One other thing, drums and music are about having fun. That's what your set
is all about! Enjoy...
The Drums in This
A basic drum set consists
of five drums: snare drum, bass drum, floor tom, and two mounted toms (also called
rack toms or tom toms). Fig. 1 shows the five drums in an Stadium set:
14" snare drum, 22" bass drum, 16" floor tom, and 12" and 13" rack toms.
Drum sizes are commonly indicated by their diameter followed by their depth thus
a 12"x10" tom is 12" in diameter and 10" deep. A 14"x5 1/2" snare drum is 14"
in diameter and 5 1/2" deep and so on.
Before We Start
The floor tom
and bass drum are shipped unassembled. Locate the drum key and the parts to be
assembled: shells, heads, rims and hoops, tension rods, and claws. Choose a clean,
open area to do the assembly and you're ready to go! One last thing, do not overtighten
rods, wingbolts, and wingscrews to prevent the threads from stripping.
Floor Tom Assembly
Next, turn the drum over and attach the other head. Finger-tighten the tension
rods for now.
Bass Drum Spurs (Fig. 4)
- Rotate the spurs toward the front of the bass drum.
- Extend the spur rods equally until the front of the bass drum is about an
inch off the floor.
- You can choose spikes or rubber tips to prevent the bass drum from creeping.
To expose the spikes, loosen the locking nut and turn the rubber tip clockwise.
Counter-tighten the locking nut and rubber tip to prevent loosening. Caution:
For safety, keep the spikes covered by the rubber tips when transporting the
bass drum. Also, to prevent damage to floors, use the spikes only on protected
- For transport, stow the spurs parallel to the shell.
Bass Drum Pedal Assembly
Slip the triangle (attached
to the spring) onto the cam roller (Fig. 5a).
- Insert the beater shaft into the beater link and tighten the key bolt. About
1/4" of the beater shaft should be visible at the bottom of the beater link
Bass Drum Pedal Attachment
- Adhere the self-stick rubber pad into the channel of the back bass drum
hoop where the pedal attaches (Fig. 6a).
- Lift the backside of the bass drum slightly and slide the pedal onto the
hoop at this location. If necessary, loosen the T-bolt to widen the opening
of the hoop clamp. Center the pedal so that it sits squarely on the floor.
Tighten the T-bolt to hold the pedal securely to the hoop (Fig. 6b).
Bass Drum Pedal Spring Adjustment(Fig. 7)
- Loosen the Top Lock Nut and adjust the Spring Tension Nut until the spring
tension feels comfortable to you. Securely tighten nut Top Lock Nut to retain
Tom Holders: Attachment & Adjustment
- Insert the tom holder, long end down, into the bass bracket and set the
height about three quarters of the way up; you may need to loosen the Stop
Lock to do this (Fig. 8a).
- Slide the tom onto the tom holder (Fig 8b). Approximate the height,
tilt, and closeness of the toms for now, you'll fine-adjust these later.
- Use the Stop Locks to prevent slippage and to "memorize" the height and
tilt settings for quick and repeatable set-ups (Fig. 8c).
Snare Stand Assembly
- Extend the legs of the base to form a stable tripod. Insert the tube of
the top section into the base and set the height about halfway (Fig 9a).
- Open the arms of the basket (Fig 9b).
- Place the snare drum into the basket (Fig 9c). It may be necessary to turn
the butterfly nut counterclockwise to accommodate the drum. Tighten the butterfly
nut just enough to grip the drum securely. Overtightening can restrict the
sound of the drum.
Cymbal Stand Assembly (Fig. 10)
- Extend the legs of the base to form a stable tripod.
- Insert the middle tube into the base.
- Insert the top tube into the middle tube.
- Telescope the tubes about midway and tighten the wingbolts.
- Remove the wing nut and top felt washer from the tilter leaving the plastic
sleeve and bottom felt washer as shown (Fig. 11a). Make sure that the
plastic sleeve is in good condition to protect the cymbal. If not, replace
it immediately with a new one.
Place the cymbal, bell
side up, over the tilter peg and onto the bottom felt washer. Replace the top
felt washer and wing nut. Allow the cymbal to move freely for best sound. Tilt
the cymbal to your preference (Fig. 11b).
Boom Stand Assembly
- Assemble the base,
middle, and top sections of the Boom stand in the same manner as the straight
- The boom arm can
be attached as shown in (Fig. 12a). Or as a cymbal stand as shown in
Drum tuning is not bound by specific notes like guitars
or pianos but instead can be tuned to your preference. However, if you want
your drums to sound their best, they need to be tuned carefully. Follow the
suggestions below and you'll have great sounding drums in no time!
1) Tune each head to itself: Choose any drum and
finger-tighten the tuning rods on one side. With a drum key tighten each rod
1/2 turn using a criss-cross sequence similar to the diagram in (Fig. 15).
Repeat until the drumhead is free of wrinkles and a tone is produced. Tap
the head at each tension rod and listen to the sound. If the head has the
same pitch all the way around, this is what you want, the head is tensioned
evenly. Chances are, however, that the sound will be "high" at some tension
rods and "low" at others. To tune the head evenly, locate the tension rods
where the sound is "high" and loosen these rods by 1/8 turn. Similarly locate
the tension rods where the sound is "low" and tighten these rods by 1/8 turn.
Repeat this procedure until the head has the same pitch all around, or in
drummer talk, "is in tune with itself. "
Once the head is in tune with itself, you can raise or lower
the pitch of the head by tightening or loosening each tension rod by the
same amount. Usually, the head will stay in tune with itself however if
it should change, simply repeat the tuning procedure above.
Turn the drum over and tune the other head. When you get
to the snare drum, tune the top head in this manner, we'll deal with the bottom
2) Tune the heads to each other: The top and bottom
heads can be tuned relative to each other three ways: 1) they can be tuned
to the same pitch; 2) the top head can be tuned higher than the bottom; or
3) the top head tuned can be tuned lower than the bottom. There is no right
or wrong so experiment with all three methods to see which sounds best to
3) Tune the drums to each other: You're now ready
to tune the whole set. The pitches descend as the drums get larger. Many drummers
like to tune their toms a 4th apart. If you want to try this tuning, sing
the first two notes of the wedding march, "Here Comes the Bride." "Here" and
"Comes" are a 4th apart. Use these notes as a guide.
If you prefer a more free-form method of tuning, go right
ahead. As mentioned before, there are no right or wrong notes when tuning
drums. Every drum however has a range of pitches where it sounds best. When
tuned too high, drums tend to sound "choked" and constricted. Tuned too low
makes them sound "flappy." Experiment until you find the notes that sound
best to you.
Tuning and Adjusting
the Snare Drum
The snare drum can be tuned to its own "voice" regardless
of how the rest of the set is tuned. However, each snare drum has a range
of notes where it sounds best and should be tuned accordingly.
For most applications, tune the bottom head (the snare head)
slightly tighter than the top head. This keeps the sound crisp and minimizes
buzz from the snares (the wires that make the snare sound).
The snares are turned on and off by the strainer (Fig.
16). A knob on the strainer controls the tightness of the snares. Adjust
the knob to achieve a crisp snare sound. Overtightening the snares can choke
the sound of the drum and shorten the life of the snares.
How to Hold
There are two basic stick grips: matched grip and
traditional grip. To learn about each and to choose the best grip for
you, we suggest consulting a qualified drum teacher. Ask your authorized Pearl
dealer for a list of teachers in your area.
(Fig. 17a) shows the matched grip. As the
name implies, the sticks are held similarly or "matched." Grip each stick
between the thumb and first finger to form a pivot. The pivot point should
be about two thirds from the tip of the stick. Complete the grip by lightly
touching the remaining fingers around the sticks as shown.
shows the traditional grip. The traditional grip was developed for marching
but is still popular with many drumset players. The left stick is cradled in
the "V" formed between the thumb and first finger and rests on the fourth finger
as shown. The thumb and first finger surround the stick for control. The middle
finger lightly presses against the stick and acts as a guide. The right stick
is held in the matched grip.
Note: The above
examples are for illustrative purposes. As you learn more about drumming, you'll
find that there is no right or wrong way to do anything. What works best for
you is what matters!
18) shows a popular cymbal set-up featuring sizes for most applications
(L to R: 14" Hi-hats, 16" Crash, 20" Ride). In general, rides and hi-hat cymbals
are used to keep time while crashes and effects cymbals, such as splashes and
china cymbals, are used to "punctuate" the music.
Proper Cymbal Playing Techniques
your cymbals to move freely to produce maximum resonance. Keeping them too tight
or angling them too steeply restricts the sound and puts strain on the bell of
the cymbal. Replace worn plastic sleeves and felt washers to prevent metal-to-metal
contact from damaging your cymbals.
Avoid direct hits to the edge of the cymbal. Use quick
glancing blows especially on splash, crash, and Chinese cymbals to obtain optimum
sound while minimizing the possibility of damage.
Hi-hats should be loose and slightly tilted to eliminate "air-lock"
and to keep the sound consistent and crisp.
Answers to Commonly Asked Questions
Q: How can I make my bass drum less "boomy?"
A: One of the simplest ways is to put a pillow or blanket
into the bass drum so that it touches one or both of the heads. Many commercially
made muffling products are available.
Q: How can I get the snares to stop buzzing when I hit
my bass drum or toms?
A: This is caused by sympathetic vibration and unfortunately
can't be eliminated completely without altering the natural sound of the snare
drum. Muffling helps but excessive muffling can cause the snare drum to sound
dead and constricted. To reduce sympathetic vibration try tuning the drums to
different pitches or move your drums into a larger room and/or experiment with
sound absorbing objects such as rugs, sofas, drapes, acoustic tile, etc.
Q: How come when I try to turn the knob to tighten the
snares, it won't turn?
A: The snare tension knob is tightened as far as it will go.
To correct this, turn the strainer to the "off" position and loosen the strainer
knob a few turns counterclockwise. Loosen the bolts holding the snare straps
or cords and take out about 1/8" of slack on the snares. Retighten the bolts.
Turn the strainer back "on" and check if the tension knob is functioning normally.
For best snare sound, the snares should be centered on the snare head.
Q: How often should I replace the snares on my snare drum?
A: Most snare drums use "snappy snares" which are spring-like
coils of wire. When new, the coils are resilient and flex as the drum is played.
Over time, however, the wires loose their resiliency and cause the drum to sound
choked. When this happens, replace the snares.
Q: How often should I change the heads on my drums?
A: Change them when they are damaged, stretched, sound dead,
or don't keep in tune. Even though they're not hit, bottom heads, especially
snare heads, should be replaced periodically for best sound.
Q: How do I keep my bass drum and hi-hat from creeping
A: Play on a carpet or rug. If your bass drum and pedals are
equipped with spikes, use them too for maximum slip-resistance.
Q: How should I clean my drums?
A: Use a quality drum cleaner or non-abrasive furniture cleaner/wax.
Follow the manufacturer's directions and use a soft cloth to prevent scratching
the finish. A feather duster is great to keep the drums dust-free between cleanings.
Q: Is it OK to put oil on the moving parts of my drums
A: Yes. Use quality oils, used sparingly to keep pedals, wingbolts
and wingnuts moving smoothly.