Welcome to the World of Drumming!


Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a set of Beverley drums.

If you're new to drumming, please refer to this guide for instructions on assembling and tuning your drums, holding sticks, and finding answers to frequently asked questions. Drums are easy to start but very difficult to master so don't get discouraged. Find a teacher, practice, and you'll get years of enjoyment from them.

One other thing, drums and music are about having fun. That's what your set is all about! Enjoy...
 

The Drums in This Set


A basic drum set consists of five drums: snare drum, bass drum, floor tom, and two mounted toms (also called rack toms or tom toms). Fig. 1 shows the five drums in an Stadium set: 14" snare drum, 22" bass drum, 16" floor tom, and 12" and 13" rack toms.

Drum sizes are commonly indicated by their diameter followed by their depth thus a 12"x10" tom is 12" in diameter and 10" deep. A 14"x5 1/2" snare drum is 14" in diameter and 5 1/2" deep and so on.


Before We Start


The floor tom and bass drum are shipped unassembled. Locate the drum key and the parts to be assembled: shells, heads, rims and hoops, tension rods, and claws. Choose a clean, open area to do the assembly and you're ready to go! One last thing, do not overtighten rods, wingbolts, and wingscrews to prevent the threads from stripping.

Floor Tom Assembly



Next, turn the drum over and attach the other head. Finger-tighten the tension rods for now.


Bass Drum Spurs (Fig. 4)





Bass Drum Pedal Assembly


Slip the triangle (attached to the spring) onto the cam roller (Fig. 5a).




Bass Drum Pedal Attachment




Bass Drum Pedal Spring Adjustment(Fig. 7)




Tom Holders: Attachment & Adjustment








Snare Stand Assembly


Cymbal Stand Assembly (Fig. 10)





Attaching Cymbals





Place the cymbal, bell side up, over the tilter peg and onto the bottom felt washer. Replace the top felt washer and wing nut. Allow the cymbal to move freely for best sound. Tilt the cymbal to your preference (Fig. 11b).

Boom Stand Assembly

(Fig. 17b) shows the traditional grip. The traditional grip was developed for marching but is still popular with many drumset players. The left stick is cradled in the "V" formed between the thumb and first finger and rests on the fourth finger as shown. The thumb and first finger surround the stick for control. The middle finger lightly presses against the stick and acts as a guide. The right stick is held in the matched grip.



Note: The above examples are for illustrative purposes. As you learn more about drumming, you'll find that there is no right or wrong way to do anything. What works best for you is what matters!

Cymbals


   (Fig. 18) shows a popular cymbal set-up featuring sizes for most applications (L to R: 14" Hi-hats, 16" Crash, 20" Ride). In general, rides and hi-hat cymbals are used to keep time while crashes and effects cymbals, such as splashes and china cymbals, are used to "punctuate" the music.


Proper Cymbal Playing Techniques

   Allow your cymbals to move freely to produce maximum resonance. Keeping them too tight or angling them too steeply restricts the sound and puts strain on the bell of the cymbal. Replace worn plastic sleeves and felt washers to prevent metal-to-metal contact from damaging your cymbals.

   Avoid direct hits to the edge of the cymbal. Use quick glancing blows especially on splash, crash, and Chinese cymbals to obtain optimum sound while minimizing the possibility of damage.

   Hi-hats should be loose and slightly tilted to eliminate "air-lock" and to keep the sound consistent and crisp.


Answers to Commonly Asked Questions


   Q: How can I make my bass drum less "boomy?"
   A: One of the simplest ways is to put a pillow or blanket into the bass drum so that it touches one or both of the heads. Many commercially made muffling products are available.

   Q: How can I get the snares to stop buzzing when I hit my bass drum or toms?
   A: This is caused by sympathetic vibration and unfortunately can't be eliminated completely without altering the natural sound of the snare drum. Muffling helps but excessive muffling can cause the snare drum to sound dead and constricted. To reduce sympathetic vibration try tuning the drums to different pitches or move your drums into a larger room and/or experiment with sound absorbing objects such as rugs, sofas, drapes, acoustic tile, etc.

   Q: How come when I try to turn the knob to tighten the snares, it won't turn?
   A: The snare tension knob is tightened as far as it will go. To correct this, turn the strainer to the "off" position and loosen the strainer knob a few turns counterclockwise. Loosen the bolts holding the snare straps or cords and take out about 1/8" of slack on the snares. Retighten the bolts. Turn the strainer back "on" and check if the tension knob is functioning normally. For best snare sound, the snares should be centered on the snare head.

   Q: How often should I replace the snares on my snare drum?
   A: Most snare drums use "snappy snares" which are spring-like coils of wire. When new, the coils are resilient and flex as the drum is played. Over time, however, the wires loose their resiliency and cause the drum to sound choked. When this happens, replace the snares.

   Q: How often should I change the heads on my drums?
   A: Change them when they are damaged, stretched, sound dead, or don't keep in tune. Even though they're not hit, bottom heads, especially snare heads, should be replaced periodically for best sound.
  

   Q: How do I keep my bass drum and hi-hat from creeping while playing?
   A: Play on a carpet or rug. If your bass drum and pedals are equipped with spikes, use them too for maximum slip-resistance.

   Q: How should I clean my drums?
   A: Use a quality drum cleaner or non-abrasive furniture cleaner/wax. Follow the manufacturer's directions and use a soft cloth to prevent scratching the finish. A feather duster is great to keep the drums dust-free between cleanings.

   Q: Is it OK to put oil on the moving parts of my drums and hardware?
   A: Yes. Use quality oils, used sparingly to keep pedals, wingbolts and wingnuts moving smoothly.